So, Dead Space 1 and 2 have been great games which take place in the distant space with necromorphs, etc, and this might be a little late, but, the level 3 RIG suit from Dead Space 1 is the most known suit to gamers, sooo, my lover and I decided to dedicate our very own first intructable guide to the "Dead Space Isaac Clarke Level 3 RIG"
Bondo Body Filler w/ cream hardener
Bondo Fiberglass Resin w/ liquid hardener
Bondo Glazing spot putty
Bondo Fiberglass Cloth
Sanding paper (I used a sanding sponge)
Bondo spreader (I call them squegees)
Hot glue gun w/ Refills
Disposable Brush for resining
Laminating sheet (for visor)
(8) 5mm high brightness led's
(2) Jumbo Blue Led's
Vinyl clear tubes
Spray paints (I used Rust-oleum Rusty metal Primer, and gold)
(Spare Pants and jacket and
2 Leather Jackets (Thank god for Thrift Stores))
Also this build will require- Patience, Time, Basic wiring skills, and some experience or cautiousness with harsh chemicals.
Step 1: Making the helmet
We had to get some good reference pictures and some time to figure out how to materialize our plans into the helmet you see above.
I also found some pepakura files which helped us with certain parts of the helmet.
We constructed it out of cardboard, and put it together with hot glue.
As for the detail parts, we had a lot of foam boards laying around and so we just looked at reference pictures and cut them out and also were glued to the helmet. (Black Parts)
Step 2: Resining
Sorry for the lack of documentation in the begging, but we just kept cuting and cuting gluing and forgot to take part by part pictures. However, if you want to make it purely out of the files, I can post the link in a comment below.
If you've worked with Resin before, then you should know that you have to be very cautious with it. It can be a big irritant to skin.'
If you don't know how to resin, there are many tutorials on youtube that are great!
So with a brush, mix the resin and the hardener just right according to your outside temperature, and begin the resin progress.
Step 3: Be patient and let it dry.
I didn't get the ratio of hardener to resin perfect, but I still gave the helmet a good hour outside for the resin to completely cure.
Step 4: Reinforcing
This step is not necessary, but will help the helmet be rock solid, seriously.
So now cut the fiberglass cloth or mat into small pieces that will fit in the inside of the helmet.
Mix another batch of resin mix and now lay the clothe or mat inside the helmet and place the resin on top.
Again, there are many great tutorials on youtube that will show you how to resin the outside and inside of anything.
This guy's tutorials are great.
Step 5: Primer It!
Now use your spray paint primer, and cover all of the helmet to see imperfections, and also let it dry and seal for a good 5-8 minutes.
Step 6: Sand it!
Take your sanding paper (Preferably rough) and sand all imperfections away and make it sleeker.
I wanted a more square-ish but still round look, so some parts are square-ish
Step 7: Bondoing
Prepare a mix of bondo to cover and harden your helmet with.
Mix and get your squegee out. be ready to work with it fast.
Step 8: Spread!
Now with your squegee, swipe some bondo away and spread it evenly and smoothly on your helmet.
If this is your first time with Bondo, then don't stress it! Its bad to stress while working with it.
when you are done, give it 10 minutes to fully cure,
you can speed this up by leaving outside in the heat, and preferably in a sunny day.
Of course, its always hot in Florida, so that was not a problem for me, it cured really fast.
Step 9: Spot putty, Primer, Paint, Weather
Sorry for the lack of steps again. I was solo for a good portion of the day and didn't waste time, so I couldn't really take pictures and work simultaneously.
Spot putty was used to fill in imperfections.
The link which I posted on step 4 will show you how to do all of these steps.
Then I primered the helmet again, sanded it a little more, and finally painted it with the rust gold paint.
Red spray paint was also used to add a blood splatter effect to the suit.
And ta-da! The helmet is done.
Step 10: Armor Making
I am going to be 100% honest here.
We designed all of the pieces without blueprints or plans, we just started doing it.
The armor plates were done out of foam, and with this foam we completed the backpack, front ribs, the chest piece, arm grips and gauntlet.
Step 11: Armoring
like I said, all done by hand, no blueprints so I can't recreate it anymore but oh well.. Im sorry guys.
RIG was also done out of foam and all of the pieces were given industrial grade Velcro to hold pieces to the under armor.
Step 12: Painted and Weathered
Painted and weathered.
These pieces were not resined.
Step 13: Under Armor
Sorry again for lack of steps but I will do my best at explaining.
We started with the pants.
Both sleeves were ripped off the leather jacket and were fitted to the thigh region of the pants (Will be shown in later pictures)
They were sowed on.
As for the jacket, we cut leather pieces to fit the design of Isaac Clarke's RIG and they were also sowed.
and the hook side of the Velcro strips were attached to the underarmor.
Step 14: Lighting
The LED's were colored blue with a sharpie and then I fit them in vinyl tubing to carry the light through
And the same was done to the rear light.
Then I cut out a piece of the backpack to the Stasis meter I forgot to add before.... --_____--
But I think it came out fine ^_^
Step 15: Detaling
To add some more detail to the armor, I took some screws and pushed them into the foam to give it a more bolted on look.
This is not necessary, but it adds on to the effect.
Step 16: Put it all together! And YOU ARE DONEE!!!
This took up about 3 weeks, but that was because we were lazy of doing it, with all the materials and determination. this build can be done comfortably in a week.
Might not look perfect cause it is not made out of steel, and im still missing the boots and plasma cutter, but this turned out GREAT!
Don't forget to vote for the space challenge!
I wish I could have timestamped all the pictures but this build was finished on August 2, 2011.
Thank you for sitting through this Instructable.
If you do choose to make this build, private message me for any doubts or questions, I go on instructables pretty much daily, so I can guarantee a fast reply.
THANK YOU!!! :D