By building this kit you agree to and promise to share the build instructions and your build experiments:
This is an open source project - Sharing is caring! Patents only benefit a few, sharing benefits the many.
This Instructional is to build an Excess Energy 'Tri-field OC10110 Pulse Motor'. I had built a large prototype a few years back. I had it running with just one coil and three magnetic fields with great success, this has 3 sets of coils and 3 magnetic fields, plus photon charge and heat recovery! This is a self running motor/generator with excess energy generation. Is it Free Energy? Some of it is energy lost by conventional electronics which is recovered and re-used so I would term it 'Ultra efficient', but there will be a break even point providing free energy financially at some point in the future. It also derives energy from outside of the motors running losses (i.e Heat and Friction) in the form of Photon capture.
Much more testing to be done to see exactly how much excess energy we have and for how long, it will depend on your configuration ultimately(how many coils, gauge of wire, additional circuits ), but what I will show you here will get you on your way to self experimentation or if you like you can copy my set up.
Like most custom made projects costs can rise quickly, you could spend $300 for the 3D kit parts for the latest MK3 parts. But the beauty is you can buy part by part and build up over time if price is an issue. The rest of the parts are quite cheap and many can be found on ebay.
The 3D printed parts I make $1 - $10 (no more than $10) a part via Shapeways. As you can imagine its taken several years and lots of errors and several $1000's to get to this point, so please don't begrudge me a few dollars to recoup costs and the sharing of ideas. I provide these instructions and the 3D parts for sale for personal use only.
(You could order one coil end and mock the rest up in wood or make a wax cast and make silicon molds to keep the costs down. My first build was in 15mm Nylon plastic sheets and stood 20" tall, it can be done in a few months. But this one is a miniature version with the benefit of the frame parts having been designed and printed saving lots of work. You could get this all up and running in a day or two)
This instructional is to build an excess energy pulse motor of my own design, it supplies its own power and excess. Nothing is set in stone, the kit and its parts are custom to your experiments, I show only one way of many!
The build is quite involved not too complex (I try to simplify) and its evolving. There may be details that have changed or parts that may change (improvements), but once you have a basic model you can easily upgrade parts. I will do my best to update those, but I cannot promise to hold your hand on everything, initiative may be required, but there is nothing that the average guy or gal cannot handle with a little thought and Googling!
i.e You could have multiple discs, or two models side by side driven from one driver coil.
You could have the axle drive a small starter electric motor , that then becomes a generator.
You could use the axle end to drive a 'Dirod' static energy generator and then feed this back to an Axle driven 'Atmo motor type rotor' ..more free energy!
Note: This is my first Instructional, sorry if its doesn't tell you everything you want to know, I have tried to include the major steps.
This is an open source project - Sharing is caring! Patents only benefit a few, sharing benefits the many.
Oliver Cohen (UK)
Step 1: Ordering the 3D parts
Firstly by starting this build you agree to share the build instructions on different websites and if you are able posting videos of your completed build and adjustments/improvements if any. YOU MAY OBTAIN 3D PART FILES FREE OF CHARGE FROM ME , ALL I ASK IS THAT YOU OFFER TO SHARE THEM WHEN YOU POST YOUR DESIGN.
The experimental parts of the main body are herehttps://www.shapeways.com/shops/FreeEnergyMotorKit
you will need:
1 x Electronic housing
2 x Battery housing
2 x Coil ends (choose option 1 or 2)
1 x Complete Inner coil set
1 x Bobbin
14 x Tritium holders (Use of Tritium very experimental at this stage, may not produce any benefit other than looking cool!)
1 x 5mm Round file
1 x 10mm Half round file (plastic modelling file -ebay)
3D printed holes are fairly tight, usually by about 0.5mm or so they will probably need filing out to the correct size. In later steps use the 5mm aluminium rods as a guide, file holes until you can slide them in snug. Bearings the same on the 10mm holes.
If you cannot afford the parts then you may copy the design freely for personal use in a non magnetic medium (wood, nylon etc NOTE: Aluminum and Brass will cause drag on the magnetic field do not use on the main parts). Be aware that if you do intend to copy the design that the diagram of the Inner core section in pencil is not 100% as the 3D design. The jutting out section needs to accomodate a Square bobbin 40Hx40Wx43mm L.
This is an open source project, which can only be made better by me sharing it with everyone and it being improved along the way.
Step 2: Winding the Bobbin
4 x Peltier 40mm x 40mm x 4mm Thermoelectric generator pads (ebay - from China) (2 required for this step)
Heatsink Plaster 10g (ebay - type that fixes heat-sinks to computer processor chips)
The bobbin is specific to the design, it incorperates waste heat into electricity as well as its primary functions of detecting magnetic field and pulsing the disc rotor. This is a Bifilar winding, meaning we wind the two wires together and tightly.
Winding the Bobbin: Set up the two coils of 23AWG and 26AWG on a dowell or rod so they are free spinning. Next take wire from each of the spools 23 and 26AWG and enter about 15cm (6") into the hole on the bobbin center. Now you should have 15cm of wire coming out of the end of the bobbin. Next get some small insulation tape to secure the wire to the center of the bobbin. and start winding evenly and tightly with 23 and 26 AWG wires together as you go.
Wind up to the slots on each side, and when you are evenly in line with the slots hold the wire tight and pass the through the upper hole with about 15cm sticking out of the end of the bobbin DO NOT CUT THE WIRE YET. KEEP TENSION ON THE WIRES use some insulation tape to hold tension temporarily.
Next: Slide in the two Peltier pads to check for space - There should be no more than 2mm space between the pad and the coil, if there is continue winding the coil until there is an even gap of around 1mm.
Next: Tape the coil (which will be quite square in shape) with insulation tape all over the copper wire, ONE LAYER OF Insulation tape only.
Next use thermal cement on the sides where the Thermoelectric pads slide in and make good contact, leave the coil and bobbin upright and let it set.
NOTE: During opperation we need some cooling of the coil so we collect heat from the sides only.
Step 3: Winding the Coil Ends
The 'Coil Ends Part' come in two configurations Option 1 and Option 2. Which you select depends on whether you will wind pancake flat coils or standard bobbin type coils. I would recommend the new MK2+ Coil end with built in bobbins.
You will need:
26 AWG or higher (26, 28, 30 also fine)
The preferred option here would be the fixed bobbin part. The power generation should be superior.
Wind 4 coils around the fixed Bobbins in alternating directions, i.e wind one clockwise and the next anti-clockwise and so on. The reason for this is that when a coil has current induced in it, it becomes a magnet, and by alternating we can promote an attract/repel/attract/repel momentum. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CUT EACH COIL, just continue winding from top of last coil to bottom of next bobbin, but remember to alternate the direction of winding.
Keep coils tight and tape with insulation tape keeping the start end free and the finish end free.
IF YOU CUT EACH OF THE COILS :Next wire the coil ends together in series end to start of each coil and continue end/start, end to start end.... You will then have two wires one at the very start and one at the very end.
To build a pancake coil you will probably use 28+AWG for this: cut out a round piece of card 30mm Diameter (across) with 10mm hole in the centre. glue the wire as you go and keep it flat with a weight. Personally I have not done this, but I have bought pancake coils from ebay (they are part of a wireless charging set). There are Youtube videos on winding pancake coils. Remember to either invert every other one or wind alternate directions and connect in series.
Step 4: Setting up the Rotor Disc/Stator
The Rotor disc has 4 pre drilled holes in the upper and lower surface.
You will need:
Counter sunk Neodynium N42 Magnets:
4 x North facing 12mm diameter x 4.2mm thick 2.5KG+pull
4 x South facing 12mm dia x 4.2mm thick 2.5KG+pull
6 x North facing 15mm diameter x2mm thick 2.5KG+ pull
2mm drill bill + 2mm Drill stop
22 x 2.2mm dia x 6.5mm (HW602 ebay Brimal components)
10 x 2.5mm dia x 6.5mm machine screws (5mm heads)
8 x 2.5mm dia x 10mm machine screws (for axle fixer)
First step : Offer the centre hole upto the axle or one of the 4.75mm aluminium rod supports. If the hole is to small get a 5mm round file and twist it half and inch in and the same on the other side a few times until its a nice snug but easy fit in the axle.
Draw a circle with a compass 75mm diameter (set compass to radius =37.5mm), on the flat face mark with a pencil at the edge 6 points at 39.27mm apart and draw the hexigram (See diagram). Pull those marks down with a set square to mark the edge every 39.27mm. This will give you 6 lines on the edge.
Next mark 5mm from the top of the edge and mark horizontally. These are the point at which you should predrill with a 2mm drill bit to a depth of 5mm. WARNING Do not drill too long or fast as the plastic will melt. cool the drill bit at each hole if required (mine was fine at a slow rate).
Next Affix 4 x Counter sunk North facing magnets to the top (screws must be no longer than 5mm).
Next repeat above for bottom face with South facing magnets.
Finally fix the 6 , 15mm dia x 3mm magnets to the edge.
Pop the disc onto the axle (or in my case one of the 4.75mm aluminium supports!) put two dabs of super glue around (NOT ON THE CENTRE HOLE!) the centre hole to affix the AXLE FIXER. Place the axle fixer on and adjust it to centre, the bore is a bit larger so make sure you centre it as best you can by eye. The super glue will hold it so you can drill out the holes to a depth of 10mm from the (5mm into main disc, 5mm through the axle fixer hole = 10mm). Use 4 x 2.5mm x 10mm machine screws to fix axle fixer in place. You will also need a grub screw when it comes to fixing the disc to the axle later.
Step 5: Setting up the Inner core and Deuterium-Tritiun Fusion rods
You will need :
1 x 3D MK4+ Complete Inner Coil set
14 x Tritium holders (if you are doing experimental fusion/electron leak option or you just want it to look cool!)
14 x 3mm x 22.5mm Tritium cores (Green or Yellow) in borosilicate tubing (if doing experimental fusion/electron leak option or want a cool futuristic glowing machine!)
(WARNING: At time of writing Deuterium-Tritium Fusion is a nuclear fusion technique. I have yet to build this part or test it myself - There may be zero benefit other than looking cool! The main issue would be that the temperatures involved would be impracticable. Chances are slim, but we can still look at realizing the free electron flow which comes from the radioactive material Tritium or at least trying! Experimentation would have to be done while there is current flowing around the coil sets wrapped around the Tritium core.) If you are implementing the Tritium core fusion rods(theory) experimental side then insert the Tritium cores in each end of the Tritium holders (dab of super glue, make sure aligned properly by setting it in between coil pegs until glue sets), next wind very small gauge magnet wire 28AWG+ around the centre of the Tritium core 5-10mm wide secure in place with tape or glue the ends with tension leaving coil ends to be measured or connected to (They may not need connecting to anything as in theory the may snatch free electrons from the Tritium gas and induce that current into the main inner coil sets). Next insert in line with coil winding pegs. Un-tested and highly experimental at this stage. At the very least it should make the model look cool in the dark! In theory Electrons being emitted should create some electron flow (current) in the surrounding wire for 12.5 years when it will reduce by half. In theory it could potentially create nuclear fusion which may/should be possible as the Tritium starts to degrade into Deuterium-tritium This is vastly complex and will need some serious tinkering and testing to see if there is any possible benefit, but the principle is Deuterium-Tritium in a vacuum with a coil wrapped around it horizontally with a vertical coil wrapped around that closely with current induced within and maintaining a magnetic field to hold the reaction, all of which should be possible with this machine (more research experiment needed). You can read more here :
Next : You will see the 7 small pegs on the inside of the inner. These are used to wind copper coils on from top to bottom 26 AWG should be fine (LEAVE A NICE STARTING PIECE and FINISH Strand 150mm Turns etc I will leave to your experimentation I used 33 turns on each peg). More copper equals more energy capture! ALTERNATE the windings (see diagram c=clockwise, ac=anti-clockwise) start with the model standing in front of you with the jutting out square section to the left. Start winding on the upper left peg in a 'anti-clockwise' direction then moving to the peg to the right and coiling clockwise and the next anti-clockwise and so on. (The reason as mentioned earlier is that coils carrying current become magnetic and by alternating the windings we can create an attract/repel/attract/repel...situation.
You may find dabbing the upper and lower pegs with super glue helps retain the coils in place. Then the middle of each winding can be zip tied to keep it tight, and stop it un-ravelling.
I recommend some 2.5mm zip ties to tie the centre of the coils to the posts, This will give the disc a few mm of spinning room.
(In later steps you will find that you will have to insert the axle and disc into this centre piece and then assemble the model as it is impossible to insert the disc once this part is mounted.)
Step 6: Electronic Housing
You will need:
1 x 3D Electronic housing part
1 x 2N3055 Transistor
1 x IN4001 Diode
1 x IN4007 Diode
1 x Neon bulb needs to be able to take upto 30-50v spikes
1 x Optional 1k Pot variable resistor (remember resistance causes energy loss through heat)
1 xSoldering Iron and Lead Free Silver Solder 1mm dia
1 x Peltier thermoelectric pad 40 x40 x 4mm
Construct circuit of your choosing or use this one (diagram):
Note that the pins on the transistor are off to one side when viewed horizontally and are not central.
Look at the pins and orient vertically in front of you with the pins furthest away from you. The left pin is the 'Base' and the right pin is the 'Emitter' solder a IN4001 Diode across the two pins with the silver band on the diode towards/pointing at the left side 'Base side'.
The metal housing of the transistor is the 'Collector' connect a IN4007 to the screw hole with the band of the diode pointing outwards away from the transistor. (wrap is around the screw hole and solder)
The Neon bulb or 12v LED connects across the Transisitor from the 'Collector' (metal housing) to the 'Emitter' (right pin).
Solder a wire of 150mm to the IN4007 diode attached to the Collector (This goes to Charging +)
Solder another wire at the opposite end of the Collector (use a few winds around other screw hole and solder)(This goes to Power Coil AWG23 and from there to Charging -)
Solder two wires 150mm long to the Emitter (one will go to Running -) (the other goes to Trigger coil AWG26)
Terminate all wires into a terminal block for later connection to coil etc... ( I taped and marked the ends of each i.e - RUN, T1 (Trigger coil), T 2, P1 (Power coil), P2 etc)
Invert 2N3055 and predrill 2 x 2mm holes or use thermal cement/adhesive and fix to the 3D part, slide the Thermo Peltier heat to electricity pad into the rear and if you require the metal heatsink cement that onto the pad. If you need to file down solder on the top side of the transistor then do. Any gap between the round top of the inserted transistor and the heat pad can be built up flush with thermal adhesive (as in heatsink type)
Step 7: Main Body Construction
You have a choice here:
How long do you want the model to be? we will assume 150mm for this:
You will need:
3 x Aluminium rods 4.75mm/5mm thick by 200mm long (you can cut these to size after the motor is assembled and you know the final length or leave an over hang for future mods!.)
1 x Aluminium Tube inner diameter 6.4mm, outter 8/10mm (3/8" tube is good)cut into 6 x 30mm pieces and 6 x 15mm pieces
8 x 5mm Drill stops
4 bearings 10mm outer dia x 5mm internal dia x 4 or 5 mm thick.
1 x Silver Steel ground 3/16" (4.75mm) central rod 8" long(200mm ish) (projects beyond model for axle use i.e generator)
Central rotor disc with magnets in place
The 3D parts ; Battery Housing, Electronic housing, 2 x coil ends , 2 x Inner coil rings with supports in place/completed unit.
Glue bearings into Battery housing, 2 Coil End parts and the Electronic housing part. do this on a flat surface so the bearings are flush with one end of the piece. Wait until glue sets, before proceeding.
NOTE: You will not be able to complete the build util all additional steps have been made, however this is an exercise in making sure all holes are ready for later assembly, You can leave the battery holder connected as per picture.
Start with the Battery housing, insert 3 x aluminum rods on the top and two bottom left and right holes. Put 3 drill stops on. Now insert the main Steel rotor shaft.
30mm 3/8" tube pieces (3 of go after in between the Battery housing and the first 'Coil End part'.Place spacers of 15mm on after the 'coil end' Then put the 'Inner Coil set on' then 15mm spacer, followed by next coil end, then 30mm spacer before the final Electronic housing unit.
The spacers for the coil end to inner parts are going to depend on whether you are using the built in bobbin part or a pancake style. The Pancake style can be spaced 10-15mm or less. The built in bobbin would be around 15/20mm depending (experiment, you just need to be 1 or 2mm clear of the edges of the inner coil part ).
When you have the inner coils on mark the centre of the inner coil set on the Steel axle with a marker pen.
Remove Axle and centre the disc on the mark, glue and affix the Axle fixer with glue and screws, including a grub screw on the axle fixer into the axle itself. (use small 5mm screws for the fixer onto the disc, slowly predrilling helps)
The rest should be a repeat of the spacing exercise, spacing only really matters on the 'Coil Ends to 'Inner coil' get it as close as you can, without the magnets being interfered with. At the end finish with 5mm drill stops.
Now you know how its going to fit together, disassemble until all parts are complete.
Step 8: Finishing Electronic Fitments (Battery Housing)
You will need 5A Terminal blocks
5 x 2.5v 20F Capacitors = 12.5v total for running (I believe this model will run at voltages in the 2.5-5v range also need to test best output for input)
8 x 10mm LEDS (glue these into battery housing)
12v battery (Can be any AH. 12-35Ah is a smallish size) This could then feed a grid tie inverter perhaps!
1 x IN4001 diode
Capacitor bank: place capacitors side by side -+-+-+-+-+ Solder them in series. Leave the first negative then solder positive to negative to positive to negative etc leaving the last positive. On the unsoldered negative and positive solder a black wire on the negative and red on the positive. Tape it all up with insulation tape (not to thick! ) place in the battery holder.
Note: When inserting LEDS they may be tight, but if too tight use very fine sand paper, on a dowel if you have big fingers like me!
LED Photon charging: Notice that the LEDS have two pins, and one is shorter than the other (on some big 10mm LEDS you will have the same size leads! Look into the LED you will see a large node and a thin node, the thin side is to be our NEGATIVE). The shorter one is to be our positive. Place the eight 10mm LEDS in the battery housing LED holes. Connect them in parallel (short to short , long to long) (READ BOLD TEXT BELOW BEFORE CONNECTING)now connect our Positive (short lead) of the LEDS to the Capacitor bank Positive, then our long lead to the Capacitor bank Negative by way of solder or a terminal block. They should not light up at any time, if they do you have the polarity the wrong way around with 12v you will blow the LEDS most likely also. You could test with 3v to make sure first!Also shine a torch on them with a multi meter connected and read the negative voltage. We are wiring these in un-conventional fashion, because we want unconventional results- meaning electricity generation! . These LEDS are providing upto 1.8V each from day light. (Just another free energy input outside of motor friction and heat losses)
NOTE IMPORTANT: Place a 1N4001 Diode from the red cable of the LEDS to the Capacitor bank, this will ensure that energy flows from your LEDS and not to them The Band of the diode points furthest away from the leds and closest to the capacitor bank.
Test main bobbin coil for continuity. Hold a meter on one strand and touch all the others in continuity mode you should have only one beep from the one other strand. Continue for other strands one by one. You can test for resistance instead if you don't have continuity, a small resistence indicates continuity and very large figure indicates no continuity.
Follow the circuit diagram in the previous steps to join to the main driver and trigger bifilar coil and charging and running battery. This is best done into a terminal block. Ensure that the varnish on the enameled copper coil is removed on the section entering the terminal block (scrape off 10mm with a knife to make a good contact).
The charging battery is the 12v battery external to the model, and the running battery is the capacitor bank within the model, all energy accumulators are available to feed the running battery as required, the charging circuit and 'Excess' can go to the charging battery. Remember that your LEDs are providing some voltage in the day time but this will drop off at night. Ignor the input generation of the LEDS as a bonus to the run battery.
Step 9: Electric motor/generator mod and test.
Capacitor bank charged. Spin the axle and disc, if you have the latest 3D parts you will probably have an electric motor to start the device.
Electric motor mod:
You will need :
small 21/22mm dia x 20/35mm motor with 2mm shaft
2 or 2.5mm Pulley (2mm plastic fits fine, but you may need 2.5mm on a metal pulley)
5mm main shaft pulley (3D printer 5mm bore pulleys are good - ebay)
M2.5mm x 4mm L Grub screws for above
belt to drive axle/rubber band!
The motor fits in the bottom of the Battery Housing (glue it in position when happy) , fit the 2mm bore pulley on the motor shaft and align the axle pulley above it and set the band on. You may have to grub screw the pulleys or glue them.
The electronics are simple a diode N4001 is soldered on the + side of the motor with the band pointing away and a red wire soldered to the Capacitor running bank. A negative is soldered from the - side of the motor to the negative side of the Capacitor bank. - that takes care of electricity generation.
Next to set up starting: Take a positive from the Capacitor bank and run it through the 'Push to make' switch and then add a suitable resistor (maths alert! V = IR , meaning Voltage of the motor in my case 3.5v has to equal IR (current draw (which you should have) multiplied by Resistance (which you wont have but can find R = V/I in my case we need a 9v drop to provide 3.5v so 9/0.67 = 13.43 Ohms I think!! So for my set up im using two 5 Watt resistors in series a 10 Ohm and 4.7 Ohm , since the starter will be used for a very brief start up of the disc, 5 Watt rating should be fine (refer to measuring current draw below, or seek youtube vid!) after adding the resistor solder it directly to the motor before the diode (i.e As close to the motor pin as you can, the black end of the diode! Don't solder it it front of the diodes band)
Wait for glue to set, Fix bobbin in place and use a nylon bolt and nuts to get it as close as you can to the magnets without causing it to touch. A few mm away would be good.
Attach the Metal Heat sinks to the sides of the bobbin Thermo-electric heat pads if required (ebay aluminium heatsinks 19mm x 19mm x 5mm from China are cheap).
NOTE: We need some cooling of the coil so we collect heat from two sides only.
You should from here be spinning and good to go!
Find connect only the main driver coil as per the circuit diagram and measure current draw.
To measure current draw you will need:
You need to measure current draw by disconnecting the main + to the the POWER coil. You place the positive lead of the multimeter (SET to 1 Amp or 10 Amp setting) on the positive of the coil cable and the negative probe to bridge the connection back to the positive in the circuit. Imagine that the + wire is left where it is and you slide in the meter in between the positive wire only. Search youtube for 'measuring current draw' if confused.
When you have a current draw you can then add up the coil ends and inner coils to see if the cover the draw, if not add the heat pads and LEDs and see if that covers the draw. Excess will charge the battery.
Step 10: Over charge protection
I wanted to have a voltage switch that disconnected the running battery when the charged battery reached say 13.5V. This is an overcharge protection. Any voltage under this figure means the pulse motor will run. This way we could have a load on the charging battery (grid tie inverter/led lights etc) and if that load failed (i.e mains power cut would mean a grid tie Inverter shuts down) the battery would be protected from over charging by the machine shutting off.
Monitoring of the charging battery was also required and so I contacted a company called REUK.co.uk, I emailed Neil there and he kindly altered a LVD (low voltage disconnect) and made it a HVD (High voltage disconnect). The following is a link to the circuit with built in battery status display:
The circuit will be powered by the charging battery, and will create a very small power draw (When it exceeds the High Voltage cutoff) of around 1mA it wont drain the battery by leaving it there for a very long period!
The positive wire from the running capacitor bank is interrupted and run through the REUK circuit and the relay treats this as the switch wire that will be opened at 13.5v and higher (user programmable voltage) thus stopping the run power to the pulse motor.